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The waves came in slowly over the gentle slope of the beach and retreated even more leisurely. I walked on the black sand and reveled in the emptiness of the vast coastline. A flag kept fluttering on a moored lonely boat. Sampada, my wife and travel buddy for this trip, was talking to a fisherwoman who was sorting out the fishes in the basket. One basket was full of prawns and shrimps while another was a mix of crabs, mackerel and mullets. As the tide rose, these fishes and crustaceans were swept along with the current into the shallows and got trapped in the nets laid. 

Standing with the feets sinked in the marshy sand felt like the ocean was pulling the sand from under my feet. Immersed in the gossip of the wind and the sea I found myself at peace at the Bordi beach.

We did a motorcycle road trip to BORDI-TALASARI in the northernmost part of Maharashtra. A mix of riding on the highway and coastal road covering a distance of 350 kms was a very joyful experience.

THE ROUTE – Mumbai~Boisar~Dahanu~Bordi~Umbergaon~Talasari~Mumbai

We left home as early as we could at 5:00 am and took the Mumbai-Ahmedabad highway (NH-48). The ride was pretty smooth with less vehicular movements. But as we crossed the Manor junction, the entire highway till Dahanu toll naka (Charoti junction) covering a distance of 25 kms was immersed in traffic due to road works. Huge trucks crawled through the two lanes swirling dust all around. It was a nightmare for two-wheelers to negotiate between them.

Our plan was to ride till Charoti junction and take a left on the Jawhar-Dahanu road. But due to the traffic, we took a diversion from Boisar. And this road which initially went through the industrial area and busy town, became surprisingly better and scenic as it reached the coastal area near Tarapur. From here the ride on the coastal highway was very much straight passing through salt-pans, grasslands and villages till Bordi beach.

From epic road trips to small moments in traffic jams, the road journeys are joyful and surprising. Sometimes, there are unpleasant and uncomfortable situations too on the road. But when we learn to find joy in the journey itself then everything becomes manageable.

GHOLVAD & BORDI

The coastal villages of Gholvad & Bordi are settled on the shores of the Arabian Sea and are locally inhabited by the chunk of Parsi population co-existing with the Marathis, Gujratis & the Kolis. It is just 5 kms before the state’s border with Gujarat on the coastal line.

We had an ultimate laid-back experience at Gholvad, which is also known as the Chikoo Bowl of Maharashtra as it is one of the leading producers for its chikoo plantations. Gholvad is on the way to Bordi. Chikoo is the main crop plant within and around Gholvad but litchi, banana and mango trees are also well grown by the Parsi community.

It is characterised by a quaint, sleeping railway station. Local women sell small baskets of just plucked fruits and coconut water under a huge banyan tree on the station road. On the short ride to the station you can’t miss the line up of chikoo orchards. There are several old heritage houses of the Iranis in Gholvad as well as in Bordi which makes for a charming vintage photograph.

Just opposite the beach there are many old schools and colleges with their traditional sloping roofs. The local boys and girls pedal their way on bicycle to the schools.

As you go further in the internal roads towards Asavali Dam, you will see the roadsides planted with toddy trees (Palmyra palm). Taari, or toddy, is an all-time favourite drink of the Iranis and the tribals living in the coastal areas. It is said that almost every Parsi family used to own a wadi or farm where the date palm tree grows. From these trees, the families tap the toddy juice and harvest it before dawn every day. The tribals of this area traditionally decorate the walls of their homes with Warli painting – an unique art form famous for its lively paintings, depicting everyday scenes of village life.

Things to see and do? Basically nothing.

The idea here is to chill. Wake up to the singing of birds and open your eyes to a canopy of dark chikoo leaves. Walk down the winding country roads  and smile at the locals. You will surely receive it back. Visit the chikoo orchards, admiring the old Parsi houses with tiled roofs and shaded verandahs. Wander alone with your thoughts on the Bordi beach. Soak in the morning sun, take in the sea breeze and give yourself a break from the insanity of the big city.

There is a village market every Saturday in Bordi. If you love street shopping, do visit to buy organic products made out of the local chikoo produce, such as chikoo chips, chikki, pickle and powder.

Every year, the town of BORDI gets decorated culturally to celebrate ‘THE CHIKOO FESTIVAL’– a two-day rural festival organized by farmers in Bordi and local Chikoo growers. The initiative which was started in 2013 by REWF (Rural Entrepreneurship Welfare Foundation) still remains a major attraction.

Gholvad-Bordi is surely a fine weekend escape for Mumbaikars.

Read our travel story on our trip to Chikoo Festival in Bordi – https://roamingwithroads.com/chikoo-festival-a-trip-down-memory-lane-to-bordi/

BEST TIME TO VISIT – Between November to February when the weather is pleasant. Even June to September is scenic if you love rains.

DISTANCE – Approx 170 kms from Mumbai


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