Clement DsouzaAs the boat drifted slowly from the Wellington Pier (formerly known as ‘Apollo Bunder’), my thoughts sailed towards an ancient island deeply rooted in rich history and heritage. An island on which I had been during my college days. Back then, I didn’t know its cultural significance. As our travel blogging journey keeps moving steadily, in our own Mumbai harbor, we set forth to discover an island which has kept to itself the many secrets and stories from ancient and medieval India.
This is the island of Gharapuri, more popularly known as ELEPHANTA.
Elephanta Island which was formed some 66 million years ago by volcanic eruptions has a diverse coastal ecosystem. The ecosystem of the island comprises mudflats and mangroves and other tree species like mango, tamarind, karanj are found in abundance with scattered palm trees.
The island got its name after a massive stone statue of an elephant that once was kept on the island. When the Portuguese landed on the island somewhere around 1534 A.D., they found a colossal stone elephant and named it as ‘Elephanta’. The British attempted to carry the Elephant back to England. The crane, however, broke and the Elephant shattered into several pieces. The broken pieces of this elephant statue was then restored and reassembled in the 19th century by British curator ‘Sir George Birdwood’ and is now displayed in the campus of Byculla Zoo, Mumbai (Rani Baug).
The fine specimen of rock cut architecture displaying the art of medieval India and the forested island of Elephanta was declared as a World Heritage Monument by UNESCO in 1987.The boat made its way through the crowded harbour and moved forward. As it went a little farther, the skyline view of Mumbai looked amazing unfolding the iconic Gateway of India and the striking Taj Mahal Hotel. The scattered vessels and boats in the foreground created a stunning spectacle. Standing on the upper deck of the ferry was an amazing experience as it sailed past gigantic cargo ships and oil tankers. The ships and boats of the Indian Navy and Indian Coast Guard were spotted at regular intervals commanding a heavy naval presence in the area.
The highlight of the ferry ride is the playful flocks of Black Headed Seagulls hovering above the boat. These birds are migratory and are winter visitors to Mumbai region. While feeding the seagulls is prohibited, no rules are followed on the ferry. People feed them packaged snacks, which is harmful for their health. The birds have become so familiar with humans that sometimes they pick the food directly from the hands of the tourists. People find this entertaining and enjoyable but it is unethical and irresponsible as we are depriving the birds from their natural source of diet.
After 60 minutes of sailing in the Arabian sea, the skyline of Mumbai went out of sight and slowly, Elephanta Island, with its two hills, came into view. The boat stopped by a pier on the northern side and we set out to explore the island.
Originally known as Gharapuri in the ancient literature, the island is the glorious abode of Lord Shiva famous for rock-cut caves dating to mid-6th century CE which are seven in number. The caves are located on the eastern and western hills separated by a narrow valley. Once the valley was full of mangroves, but now on decline. The larger group of five caves on the western hill are easily accessible to tourists after climbing some steps and are the major attraction. The main cave here is universally famous for its carvings of Lord Shiva. The smaller group of two caves on the eastern hillock might require a guide as the climb goes through dense jungle growth. Remnants of a huge Buddhist Stupa dating back to 2nd century BC have been found on the eastern hill. Thus, the Elephanta Island shows syncretism of Hindu and Buddhist works of art.
Many dynasties held their dominion over the island such as the Mauryas, Rashtrakutas, Chalukyas, Yadavas and later the Muslim and the Marathas rulers and finally by Portuguese before it passed into the hands of the British.
Historical evidence to Gharapuri was found in an inscription of the Chalukyan King. The inscription described this place as a goddess of wealth which he seized from the Mauryan dynasty which ruled the western coast from the 4th to 7th centuries AD. The ancient site was an important stopover for Roman, Arab, Persian and European traders. One of the landing places on the island which is now a village is still known as Mora Bunder (i.e the port of the Moras or Mauryas). The other two small villages on the island are Shet Bunder & Raj Bunder. The population is roughly 1200 with people here belonging to Agri and Kunbi communities. Their main occupation is fishing and rice cultivation. With a boost in tourism, the majority of people are also dependent on Elephanta Caves for their income.
THE TOP ATTRACTION OF ELEPHANTA
The CAVE NO. 1(Trimurti Cave) is the most important one on the island.
The Trimurti Cave is highly acclaimed for its evolved Brahminical architecture. It is the largest excavation supported by rows of massive pillars and the huge hall carved with various manifestations of Lord Shiva and Hindu mythological themes.
A ‘Sarvatobhadra’ shrine with a huge Shivalinga catches attention. Sarvatobhadra means auspicious on all sides. It has a door in each of the four directions of the shrine. On either side of the doors there are impressive works of sculptures of ‘dwarapalas’ (doorkeepers) showcasing fine example of ancient art.
There are nine elegantly carved rock carvings of Lord Shiva on the four corners of the large hall. These manifestations of Shiva include Yogeshvara (Mahayogi), Ravananugraha, Shiva-Parvati, Ardhanarishvara, Maheshamurti, Gangadhara, Kalyansundar murti, Andhakasuravadha and Natraja Shiva.
The central image of ‘Maheshamurti’, also known as the Sadashiva is a masterpiece and dominates the main cave. About 7m in height, this image is one of the finest sculptures signifying the unity of three different aspects of the supreme beings which includes the creator, preserver and destroyer. The central face of the Sadashiva representing Tatpurusha or Mahadeva looks calm, adorned by rows of necklaces. The second face to the left represents Aghora or Bhairava. It is Shiva’s manifestation as the destroyer. The third face to the right is the feminine aspect of creation representing Vamadeva or Uma.
A perfect blend of the art of the Chalukya dynasty and Gupta period reflects through certain architectural features and depictions of nature and people.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
The remaining rock-cut caves are either partly excavated or damaged due to natural causes. Beside the main cave there are other smaller cave shrines with varying level of details (Cave Nos. 2 to 5). But they might attract only those who are interested in Indian archaeology. The Cave Nos. 6 & 7 are on another hill on the eastern side. To reach there one has to come out of the main cave entrance and take the road going to Raj Bunder village. On the way there is a climbing trail which goes to the cave site. It is advisable to take a guide here.
If you still have energy (and time) after visiting the main cave and the minor caves, hike up the narrow path from the entrance gate to reach Cannon Hill. There is an old Portuguese cannon post overlooking the harbor with few un-excavated Buddhist sites, dating back to 2nd century BC. Next to the ticket counter there is a small Archaeological Museum presenting the narrations of the displays in Elephanta. It is worth a visit before exploring the caves.
There is a man-made lake on the way to Raj Bunder village. This water reservoir was built to address a local water shortage. With some trees and birds around, it is quite a peaceful place to sit after a day-long exploration.
BEST TIME TO VISIT / HOW TO REACH & OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION
Except monsoon (June to August) the Elephanta Caves can be visited in all other months. The ferries are closed in monsoon. The winter (November to February) is considered as the best time.
Being an island, Elephanta Caves can only be reached by the water. It is about 7 nautical miles (11 kms) from the Mumbai’s most famous landmark – the Gateway of India.
Nearest Railway Station – Churchgate & C.S.M.T. (Regular state transport buses (BEST) ply between from both the railway stations to Gateway of India. Bus no. 112 from Churchgate & Bus no. 111 & 116 from C.S.M.T)
A ferry service operates between Gateway of India and Elephanta every 30 minutes. The first ferry leaves at 9 am. And the last ferry from Elephanta to Gateway leaves at 5:30 pm. The ferry time is 1 hour in each direction.
TIP – Catching the first ferry at 9 am is advisable to explore the island completely in a relaxed manner.
The cost of the ferry is Rs. 260 per person (round trip). The boatmen charge an extra Rs. 10 for a seat on the upper deck.
A mini train runs between the Gharapuri pier to the foot of the hill. The ticket is Rs. 18 (both ways). One can also walk it out for 10 minutes and then climb around 120 steps to reach the caves.
The village panchayat takes a nominal fee of Rs. 5 from tourists.
The entry ticket to the Elephanta Caves costs Rs. 40. Still photography is allowed. Videography is prohibited.
NOTE – THE ELEPHANTA CAVES IS CLOSED ON MONDAY
